We caught up with Jo Wessels, the man in the spotlight who has been named Moët Best Sommelier, soon to be representing South Africa on the international stage. By claiming the title of Moët Best Sommelier, Jo has secured a place in the ASI Best Sommelier of the World championships in Belgium in 2019, as well as a trip to visit the Moët & Chandon Maison in France. And of course a magnum of Moët & Chandon to toast to his celebratory #moëtmoment!
Q: Congratulations on being named Moët Best Sommelier 2018! You did an astounding job in the finals, pinpointing the varietal of the red wine presented to you to a T and even correctly identifying the secret beverage as a Bourbon. How does one train an expert palate like yours and to what extent do you think it’s pure training?
A: Blind tasting can be an amusing exercise, but it’s also quite silly – in reality nobody drinks wine in this way! Nonetheless it is a useful tool for understanding the structure of a wine and especially determining its true quality without being influenced by a label. It requires a lot of wine sampling and practice, but essentially it is a skill that can be learned. It is however not a key factor for the enjoyment of wine. Tasting and discussing a wine is essential in this trade, but the most joy of course comes from simply drinking it!
Q: Claiming this title is quite a feat as you’ll now go on to represent South Africa on the international stage in 2019. Please tell us a bit about the next phase of the competition and how this will shape your career path?
A: The world championship for the Association de la Sommelierie Internationale (ASI) will be taking place in Belgium next year. It is probably the toughest wine competition there is, drawing the best sommeliers from around the globe (many of the candidates are working towards their Master Sommelier title). So the next few months will require an extreme amount of dedication, discipline and training. I am honoured to be representing my country and hope to do us proud!
Q: Please tell us about some of the challenges you were presented with in the course of the Moët Best Sommelier competition?
A: The semi-finals involved a tricky theoretical paper and blind tasting, followed by a practical task in a restaurant setting where we had to serve an older red wine, some of which weren’t in great condition with brittle corks adding to the challenge. The final included elements of cocktail preparation, wine service with a Coravin, food and wine pairing, blind tasting and Moët & Chandon Champagne service. Basically, the Moët Best Sommelier competition tested all the elements that a good sommelier should be well acquainted with.
Q: It’s an exciting time for South African wine and the industry is evolving at an incredible pace, what are some of the changes you have seen in recent years?
A: The most important change I have noticed is the continued improvement in quality – the wines are getting better and more interesting year after year. And South Africa is also particularly evolving in the sphere of gastronomy. Not only are our wines getting better, but also our culinary offering. It’s a wonderful time to be South African.
Q: How do you feel the South African Sommelier Association (SASA) has positively influenced some of these changes?
A: SASA is doing a great job of raising the profile of the sommelier trade in South Africa, with a strong focus on education of wine waiters and future sommeliers. I am truly happy that we have so many talented ambassadors in our restaurants, raising the quality of the wine offering and standard of service. I also believe there is a greater exchange between sommeliers and winemakers, and that this can also play a role in honing the quality of our wines even further.
Q: If you had to predict any changes to the South African wine scene, what would they be?
A: I hope to see a greater move towards organic viticulture and winemaking. I feel that our wine industry is lagging behind in this regard, in comparison with our international peers.
Q: We’d love to learn a bit about your background. What inspired you to move into the realm of professional sommelier?
A: Like many others, I don’t have a natural background in wine. I was born and raised in Bloemfontein, so I grew up with mielies instead of grapes. It was my older sister who first entered the world of wine, studying viticulture and oenology at Stellenbosch and later becoming the winemaker at Vrede en Lust. I came to Stellenbosch to study a BA in Politics, Philosophy and Economics, but was interested and drawn to the work my sister was doing. Out of curiosity I did an introductory course through the Cape Wine Academy, landed a weekend job in a tasting room and that was the beginning of my venture into the world of wine. This world and its people fascinated and engulfed me and I knew I simply had to be part of it.
Q: How long have you been in the industry, where have you worked and how did you come to compete for the title of Moët Best Sommelier?
A: I’ve actively pursued a career in the wine industry since 2007, first working for a few wine farms, then at The Vineyard Connection in Stellenbosch. My fine-dining experience started at Rust en Vrede Restaurant, under the watchful eyes of David Higgs, Neil Grant and later Joakim Blackadder. I gained some international experience working on the smaller luxury cruise ships of Oceania and Seabourn. I’ve been in Germany since 2015 for further wine studies and have been involved at ENTE Restaurant, which is a renowned Michelin-star restaurant in Wiesbaden. My predecessor there is Marc Almert, who currently holds the title of Best Sommelier in Germany. Incidentally he also won the WOSA Sommelier Cup in South Africa last year. He is the epitome of a great sommelier, especially one that selflessly supports peers in the trade. He advised and encouraged me to participate in wine competitions. Next year we will be competing against each other in Belgium, but it couldn’t be friendlier!
Q: What does the training involve and what are the attributes needed to become a professional sommelier?
A: It’s a combination of theoretical and practical knowledge, which entails a fair amount of learning. But it’s not just facts – someone can know all there is about wine and still be terrible at serving it. A professional somm has to have a knack for hospitality and truly connect with guests – reading their wants and needs and offering advice without being pushy. I’m not a fan of “rockstar” sommeliers who enjoy taking centre stage. In my opinion, a restaurant should revolve around its guests.
Q: And of course, we’d love to hear your opinion on fine wine! Are there any specific tips you can give wine lovers?
A: We often struggle with the concept of spending a little more on a bottle of wine, but here’s a little thought experiment I like to communicate when thinking of buying wine for a special occasion: compare the spend per bottle to the cost of a concert ticket. In essence, both are fleeting forms of art which you get to experience throughout the course of an evening. Think of a celebrated bottle of wine as an international artist that you would like to see in concert and treat yourself to it. Trust me, Puligny-Montrachet can be so much better than Katy Perry!
Q: What do you feel are some of the common mistakes people make with wine?
A: Talking too much about it. Wine belongs in the realm of sensory experiences that defy true conveyance through human language. The beauty of wine can be shared without blabbering about it or giving full tasting notes. It’s like enjoying a special sunset in good company – you don’t want a running monologue from someone regarding the colours, light structure, shadows, etc… Sometimes it’s just better to keep quiet and let the wine speak its own silent and mysterious language.
Q: Do you have a favourite food and wine pairing?
A: In our profession we often work with dishes of great complexity and a wide variety of flavours. It’s always fun finding the best combinations – there are so many amazing pairings! But personally, I enjoy the beauty of basics and simplicity. One of my favourite things to do is get a variety of cheeses with freshly baked artisanal bread and enjoy it with a quality sparkling wine. Good Champagne can have a toastiness that works well with the bread; and there’s a certain richness that works well with cheeses. The inherent acidity and bubbles also cut through any creaminess and this is palate cleansing, which works well if you have an array of different cheeses. Oh, and pair it with a good setting and great people of course!
Q: Please tell us about a few regional wines you have come across that have really surprised you.
A: I’m always amazed by the incredible span of grape varieties that we have been planted in South Africa – there’s not just diversity in our people and cultures, but also in our wines. My attention has lately been grabbed by local wines made from grape varieties such as Albariño, Galega Dourado, Barbera, Cinsaut Blanc and Roussanne, just to name a few!
Q: We’d love to hear your opinion on some underrated or up-and-coming wine regions in the country?
A: I believe that there’s a measure of rediscovery within our existing regions, with winemakers looking for interesting pockets of climates, especially cooler ones. South Africa has some dramatic mountains with unique soils. Be on the lookout for wines from vineyards with higher altitude and aspect. They often have a unique soul.
Q: What is your favourite wine varietal?
A: That is indeed a difficult question to answer. Grape varieties and wines are like ones children – I don’t pick favourites. But I can say that Chenin Blanc and Riesling are very talented and can do many different things; so those are the ones I’m particularly proud of.
But I try to love each grape variety in its own special way.
Q: Any wise words to budding sommeliers and aficionados?
A: A career in wine is a wonderful one, but also calls for great responsibility. We must remember that alcohol remains a drug with the dangers of addiction. Be conscious about your consumption, drink moderately, spit when doing professional tastings, and have alcohol-free days. Learn to master wine, so that it doesn’t become your master.