Although sustainability is still a quiet topic in Nigeria’s fashion industry, it is fast gaining more recognition, with fashion brands like DFL (Design for Love) leading the revolution.
Introduction
In today’s fashion marketplace, fashion brands have willingly or involuntarily increased their sustainability efforts, one of which is adopting the zero-waste model. In Nigeria, for instance, DFL is setting a pace for other brands to follow, and the most exciting aspect is that this adoption is willing. Earlier in the year, global fashion publication; Business of Fashion published an article on “Fashion Sustainability Priorities for 2023”. The article’s introduction discussed the slow progress of sustainability efforts in the fashion industry in 2022. According to Racheal Deeley of BOF, “Regulators called out big brands for greenwashing, rising inflation worsened the squeeze on garment workers’ already precarious livelihoods, and increasingly extreme weather highlighted the urgent need for action to meet global ambitions to curb climate change”. One begins to wonder why the sudden interest of major fashion stakeholders in the pace of the fashion industry’s efforts at sustainability, seeing that a few years ago, the actions carried out towards fashion sustainability were entirely voluntary and unregulated.
Data from the Earth Org shows that 1.92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced yearly. Of the 100 billion garments made annually, 92 million tonnes end up in landfills. In simpler words, the equivalent of one rubbish truck full of clothes ends up in landfills every second; a continued situation will see waste soar up to 134 million tonnes at the end of the decade. Quantis, a leading sustainability consultancy, in its 2018 fashion environmental impact report, reveals that if this increase is left unchecked, the global emissions generated by the apparel industry will increase by 50% by 2030. In a 2020 article, BBC reported the amount of money lost each year because of underwear and failure to recycle clothes to be around $500 billion. Triggered by these figures and the rising contribution of reckless attitudes to global climate change, governments worldwide are making recycling regulations, while fashion stakeholders are exploring more concepts from recycling and circular economy to green product design.
Fashion Sustainability Issues in Nigeria
Nationally, textiles account for 2.48% of total municipal solid wastes. Every year, Nigeria generates roughly 32 million tonnes of trash. Lagos State produces 825 20-ton trucks’ worth of rubbish daily, or around 16,500 tonnes (Netherlands Enterprise Agency 2020). Fashion sustainability issues in Nigeria pose significant challenges to the environment and society. However, amidst these challenges, Nigerian fashion brands are gradually recognising the importance of sustainability and taking steps towards adopting ethical and eco-friendly practices to mitigate the negative impact and promote a more sustainable fashion industry. While writing this article, I stumbled on one of these brands; DFL Bags by Design For Love (DFL).
DFL Brand: An Emerging Leader in African Fashion Sustainability
Top media publications, from Vogue to the New York Times, have talked about the efforts of Nigerian fashion brands concerning sustainability over the years. Still, a bulk of these articles are centred on apparel production. Aside from those, fashion brands like DFL are leading the sustainability movement in the fashion industry. Launched in 2004 as a fashion design and manufacturing brand, the DFL brand was born from the founder’s desire to use locally sourced materials to celebrate African artisanship. Just like other fashion brands across the globe, effective disposal of waste generated from the manufacturing process was a challenge for the brand. In my quest to get more insights into how they were able to solve this challenge, I reached out to the founder, Oluwunmi Funbi-Olufeko. “Seeing that we couldn’t responsibly dispose of this waste, we decided to prioritise sustainability with a commitment to the concept of zero waste by recycling much of the waste fabrics from the apparel production process by turning them into unique handcrafted patchwork accessories in an initiative we called the ‘BISOLA PROJECT’, which we have consistently done for the last ten years”, she said. One of the outcomes of this project is the creation of DFL Bags.
Impacts of DFL Brand’s Sustainability Efforts
Over the years, the sustainability efforts of the DFL brand have had a significant impact on both the environment and society. The brand’s model, which focuses on eco-friendly practices and ethical production, has set a positive example for the Nigerian fashion industry and beyond. Reflecting on one of its core values, Oluwunmi shared that the brand emphasises the use of eco-friendly materials and adopting sustainable manufacturing processes that have led to a reduced carbon footprint. Through its use of recycled materials and natural fibres, DFL reduces the environmental impact associated with producing new materials, including the projected 50% increase in global emissions generated by the apparel industry by 2030.
In Lagos Nigeria, the region of production for DFL (Design for Love) designs, nearly 5% of the waste found in landfills is textile waste, and approximately 35% of all oceanic primary microplastic pollution is caused by the fashion industry operations. In their efforts to reduce waste and encourage recycling, DFL implemented recycling and waste reduction initiatives throughout their production process. The waste generated from the apparel-producing arm of the DFL Brand is used to create stylish bags, including a range of laptop bags, clutch bags, and tote bags, which they also ship internationally. “Wherever possible, we actively work towards minimising waste, reusing materials, and recycling, an approach that hugely contributes to a more circular economy and reduces the strain on natural resources.
Integrating the zero-waste approach into fashion brands is commendable, but it is more impressive when community members are active and willing participants. Made up of 80% women, DFL ensures this part of the country’s population is actively engaged in its sustainability efforts through locally sourcing endangered indigenous natural fibres and fabrics from underserved communities, who rely on the patronage of these products as a source of livelihood. Nigerian fashion brands are increasing their participation in addressing sustainability issues in the industry, and DFL has emerged as a leading force in this movement. Through their innovative approaches and commitment to ethical practices, DFL sets an inspiring example for the global fashion community, proving that sustainable fashion can be both stylish and socially responsible.
